Monday 23 February 2009

Granite before Heaven

After the glorious day in Cresciano I luckily had some very pleasant climbing days here and there, so let's start in chronological order...
CUBO.
I had one session on my neverending nightmare Coretex, a very hard 7C slab at Cubo, my usual halfday boulder spot. Conditions were perfect, 6° sunny and windy, and my skin was good too. After warming up I set the camera and did good on my first try of the day. Second one was even better. Third try I grabbed the last nasty tiny pinch left hand, jumped and hit the last flat jug only with my tips, holding the swing for a split second then landed on the pad. I knew next one it would have gone. With confidence I hit each hold perfectly, took the micro-pinch and squeezed as hard as I could. After having done the superdelicate footswitch I was ready for the final jump and 100% sure I would grab the top and end the nightmare when... my left hand ripped the pinch and once again the pad welcomed my ass! I was pissed off! Now I have to find another beta and I don't know if I really want to make the effort. Damn'it!
CRESCIANO.
Then it was swiss time again. Unfortunately good conditions were fading and a quite hot sunny day saw our arrival. Anyway I managed to have a quite good day, as I dispatched in a couple of goes Yuri Gagarin, a crimpy soft 7B+ that ends with a nice dyno to a good sloper. Then I made the maybe first (?) repetition of Gianluca Bosetti's traverse Ieri e domani, a problem that starts with the nice crux move of U-Turn 7B then goes right using slopy crimps and a heelhook and ends with an easy 6A+ mantle. All for a 7B+ traverse. Finally I did the superclassics Vol au vent 7A and Frocio multiplo 6C+, wonderful and hard for the grade slab climbing! Absolutely recommended.

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