Adventure time!

Nelle ultime settimane il tempo per aggiornare questo blog non è stato molto... Fortunatamente non solo per gli impegni della vita ordinaria, ma anche per un sensibile aumento dell'attività outdoor.

Ho ripreso a far blocchi sulla roccia vera, fin troppo ansioso di testare la mia forma! Dopo 3 uscite il bilancio in termini di problemi risolti non è granchè, ma le sensazioni sono state abbastanza buone nonostante tutto. Un 7b, considerato duro per il grado, al terzo giro e qualche altro blocco più facile. In compenso sono caduto all'ultimo movimento di vari 7b+/c, dopo non molti tentativi. La caviglia sembra andare meglio e come gestualità arrampicatoria non sono quasi per nulla limitato. Rimane purtroppo una certa apprensione per le cadute, il che mi frena ancora molto. Per ora.
In ogni caso sto acquisendo man mano più sicurezza e penso che il prossimo futuro porterà qualche risultato in più.
Emotivamente è stato fantastico tornare nei boschi, fra i massi e in compagnia di buoni amici a fare quel che più mi piace... E le cose non possono che migliorare!

L'imminente arrivo delle temperature più basse e la scoperta di nuovi spot molto interessanti giocano a mio favore.
La valle di Gressoney in primis: relativamente vicina alle mie due residenze (Aosta e Biella), potenziale immenso e roccia di ottima qualità (la migliore in Valdaosta di sicuro)! Poi la piccola area in prossimità del passo del Gran S.Bernardo, che con qualche progetto molto duro e a 2400mt sarà perfetta per gli ultimi caldi settembrini. Meno interessanti per qualità della roccia, comunque buona, Val Ferret, Valsavarenche e un paio di spot in Valgrisenche. E ancora Ussel, vicino a S.Vincent, e l'area di cui avevo già parlato in precedenza all'imbocco della Valpelline.
Tutto questo in un range che va dai 500mt ai 2400mt e dai 5 minuti fino all'ora in macchina da Aosta! Prossimamente posterò anche qualche immagine delle varie aree.

Aldilà del bouldering, l'estate mi ha portato anche una rinnovata voglia di 'avventura' nel senso più ampio del termine.
Penso che la parentesi in falesia possa avere strascichi anche nei prossimi mesi, visto che con la compagnia giusta mi sono divertito un sacco! Ad essere sincero non mi interessa granchè il grado nella fattispecie, quanto lo sperimentare un aspetto diverso della scalata che negli ultimi 3 anni non ho mai esplorato.
Allo stesso modo ho voglia di vie lunghe, magari nelle intime e solitarie prealpi biellesi, senza dover essere in alcun modo intimidito dall'assenza di difficoltà... Solo il piacere del gesto e dell'immergermi nell'aria familiare e singolare dei luoghi che conosco da tanto tempo.

L'autunno per me ha sempre significato l'inizio di tutto, e sento che quest'anno sarà così ancor più che in precedenza...
E' tempo di nuovi stimoli, nuove sfide e lunghi respiri!

Until the next...

Mola nen

La perseveranza ha portato risultati.

Innanzitutto in forma di maggiore fluidità: nelle ultime uscite ho scalato decisamente meglio e con più testa, volando senza problemi. Ho speso sicuramente meno energie delle volte precedenti, con la conseguenza di poter recuperare meglio sui riposi buoni, cosa che prima non era possibile visto che ci arrivavo troppo stravolto e comunque stringendo come un folle anche le zappe dei suddetti!

In secondo luogo ho vissuto la nuova esperienza del passare la corda in catena. Erano anni che non lo facevo ed alla fine non è male...

Certo non è come ribaltarsi dopo un blocco di 4 movimenti disperati dove il minimo errore vuol dire cadere sul pad... ma non è male. Peccato che per ora una buona fetta della torta è rappresentata dalla liberazione dal peso di non dover più rifare la via...

Dal punto di vista "prestativo" nulla di che, ho chiuso finalmente dopo fin troppi giri Dinamite 7b+ e Menhir 7b a Chenal. Questi i gradi segnati alla base, anche se ho la certezza che mezzo grado in meno su entrambe le vie sarebbe una valutazione più realistica. Non importa comunque. Quel che conta per me è l'essere progredito. Gradi più alti non tarderanno se dovessi continuare.

Troppi giri dicevo... Ecco un'altra lezione che mi è stata servita sul piatto!

Dinamite avrei potuto chiuderla al secondo giro e Menhir flash. Invece no. Il fatto è che io parto su una via come se fosse un blocco! Se perdo un piede va beh, riparto... Se ho qualche sensazione un po' così va beh, riparto... Eccetera.

Invece no!! Cazzo dopo un tentativo serio su una via ti tocca riposare a lungo prima di tornare nuovo e riprovare... Lo so che è ovvio per un falesista abituale, ma per me è stato come scoprire l'acqua calda! Certo, se alla minima sensazione di incertezza, fatica o quant'altro butti al vento il giro allora impiegherai secoli prima di avere quello buono. E tutto questo ad aumentare lo stress del "dover" provare e riprovare la via, perchè ormai sai che è ampiamente alla tua portata ma più vai avanti e più sei teso e via dicendo... Una spirale a scendere.

Quindi nuovo step falesistico: partire davvero convinti che sia il giro giusto e non con la mentalità del tipo "ma sì se non va la stampo al prossimo". Detto proprio à la brut dieu: MOLA NEN.

Nel frattempo ho ricominciato al Pan Gullich e sono lieto di annunciare che, nonostante non abbia potuto dare gas al 100% per via della caviglia (leggi cadute con poco controllo), sono ai miei massimi standard! Molto bene visto che sono all'inizio del ciclo.

A settembre avrò di che sorridere...

Legnate!

Oggi grande lezione in falesia, a Chenal. Ho capito diverse cose che mi torneranno utili se dovessi continuare a scalare con la corda con un po' di costanza (o perlomeno in alcuni periodi della stagione).

Ma andiamo con ordine.
Innanzitutto il riscaldamento: un 7a molto continuo e con prese buone. Assolutamente inadeguato per il mio fisico! Penso di aver bisogno per ora di almeno un tiro veramente facile per iniziare e poi alzare lo stimolo con qualcosa di duro, anche con vari resting, dopodichè posso scalare anche su tiri più di continuità. Risultato: tiro sbagliato alla grande e acciaiata paura che mi è rimasta addosso tutta la giornata. Live and learn.

Secondo tiro Dinamite 7b+, ovvero il tiro che ho provato settimana scorsa. Mi sembra di ricordarmelo bene e parto convinto. Invece scalo molto male la prima parte facendo confusione con i piedi e cado al secondo dei due movimenti chiave. Il giro dopo uguale, a parte lo spettacolino quasi boulderistico sul movimento duro: tacca di destro, presa male, alzo i piedi, sparo alla vaschetta di sinistro. La prendo, male, la tengo, perdo i piedi, due bandiere cercando di rimetterli da qualche parte e poi esplodo. Ahahah! PUNT!

Va beh... Un po' deluso, decido di riposare mentre gli altri fanno Menhir, il 7b a fianco. Che sembra anche bello. Avrei fatto meglio a provarlo, anche perchè il terzo giro della giornata su Dinamite avrà lo stesso esito dei primi due.
Alla fine un po' scazzato faccio un giro su Assistenti di volo 7c+/8a: tiro molto bello, non durissimo ma continuo su tacche fino ad un riposo discreto, poi lancione che secondo Nicky (che lo stampa al secondo giro con gran gran margine) potrebbe valere da solo un 7a+ blocco. Purtroppo non mi fido a lanciare per paura di farmi male alla caviglia, ma soprattutto perchè non c'è la testa.

Oggi ho scalato davvero male, stando tanto sulle prese e stringendole troppo, con i risultati di cui sopra. Poi da un lato confusione con i piedi mentre dall'altro fin troppa 'certosineria' nell'essere sicuro che fossero ben messi. Insomma un mezzo disastro!
La situazione è evidente: se è vero che ho poca resistenza è anche vero che la principale causa del fallimento non è questa carenza, ma la mancanza di fluidità, lo stringere tutto senza poter quindi sghisare nemmeno sulle zappe. E anche la testa, che almeno oggi non ha funzionato come speravo!

Ora sono chiaramente ad un bivio: o cedo, aspetto che la caviglia torni a posto per bene e torno al più divertente ma anche più rassicurante, in quanto conosciuto, bouldering, oppure mi impunto e cerco di fare qualche altro passo su questa strada, almeno per vedere dove mi porta.

Non è nella mia indole mollare il colpo e mi sembra evidente che ho appena iniziato a scavare sotto la superficie dello sport-climbing. Voglio imparare quel che c'è da imparare da queste batoste e da quelle che seguiranno. Voglio uscire dalla comfort zone!
Non devo fare l'errore di impantanarmi su un tiro solo per chiuderlo, almeno non in questa fase di apprendistato. Scalare su gradi anche più easy, per capire che cos'è il ritmo, dove fare cosa eccetera... Sono certo che qualche tiro entrerà anche, e presto. E una volta imparate le regole e i trucchi del nuovo gioco, anche il livello si tarerà di conseguenza su qualcosa di più interessante.
Sono sicuro che non potrò che trarne benefici, anche quando tornerò ai blocchi!

Always psyched!!

Don't stop me now

Dopo la sessione di ieri alla Moonboard, passata a provare blocchi massimali di 3/4 movimenti, stamattina il ritrovo con Nick all'attacco del sentiero che attraversa la nostra 'storica' area boulder biellese, ovvero il Chiavolino.

La temperatura e l'umidità non promettono nulla di buono, ma la motivazione come sempre C'E'. A maggior ragione perchè è la mia prima uscita sui massi dopo l'infortunio.

La decisione in sè è certamente prematura, ma quello che mi ha spinto è la presenza dell'unico problema degno di nota che devo ancora risolvere. E che aspetta una prima ripetizione dopo la salita di Nicky lo scorso anno. Il nome è 'Impressioni di settembre' e il grado, da confermare, si aggira sul 7C/+. E' molto difficile da valutare perchè tutto il blocco si riduce ad un solo movimento molto duro ed aleatorio: con una piccola tacca per la sinistra e un tallone destro precario si lancia ad un'altra piccola tacca per la mano destra, il tutto su uno strapiombo a 45°; se il tallone sta, evitando la bandiera, il blocco termina con due movimenti banali. Nicky in verità l'aveva risolto con un metodo da lunghi, rilanciando con la mano sinistra dalla tacchetta verso un'altra tacca più buona. Movimento comunque duro e purtroppo eliminante, anche se per poco, per la mia altezza.

Fatto sta che, data la lowballità del blocco, ho pensato che fosse un buon primo test in quasi-sicurezza per la caviglia. Purtroppo nonostante le ottime sensazioni di minchia!stritolamentotacca, non mi sono fidato a lanciare... Il rischio di appoggiare male il piede (nella condizione in cui è ora) e vanificare 2 mesi di buon recupero e riabilitazione, mi ha fatto desistere in fretta.

La sensazione rimasta, in ogni caso, è quella della miglior forma che io abbia mai avuto, almeno a livello di forza erogabile. Mi auguro davvero che la caviglia continui a migliorare, perchè sono proprio curioso di salire sul ring contro qualche pezzo di granito svizzero...

Nel pomeriggio invece, nonostante il caldo e l'umidità abominevole, sapevo di dover nutrire il nuovo mostriciattolo neonato... Quindi dopo qualche altro blocco al pannello per alzare lo stimolo, io e Dani abbiamo iniziato a lavorare un circuito sui 20/25 movimenti. In pratica il gioco consiste in: blocchetto in entrata - sezione più facile ma in crescendo - buon riposo - blocco sul 7A - riposo - ultima sezione con un paio di singoli 'spicy'... Dopo qualche giro riesco a superare il blocco centrale ma cado andando al secondo riposo. Non resisterà a lungo! Non saprei come dargli una valutazione, ma di certo è decisamente più impegnativo del 7b+ provato a Chenal lunedì scorso. La buona novella è che sento che la mia resistenza sta aumentando, il che non potrà far altro che giovare al mostriciattolo di cui sopra.

Quindi.

Obiettivi a breve termine aggiornati: vista la prematurità del boulder fuori, si punta a qualche tiro in falesia; non mi importa il grado: 7a, 7b, 7c quel che viene viene... Fluidità e resistenza.

Obiettivi a medio termine: ancora forza, più forza, di più! E ricominciare sui massi a settembre. 8A. Diversi.

Obiettivi a lungo termine: eheh.....

Falesia?!?!?

Ad ormai più di due mesi dall'infortunio la situazione sembra virare verso acque più serene, sebbene la caviglia sia ancora piuttosto gonfia e il movimento limitato.

Ho regolarmente iniziato ad allenarmi sulla Moonboard, fortunatamente riscontrando ancora un buon livello di forza: il trave ha fatto il suo dovere! Non mi posso ancora permettere di sfruttare tutta l'altezza del muro, visto che le cadute sono ancora off-limits, ma la quantità di combinazioni di movimenti duri possibili mi terrà occupato per un bel po'. Intanto nuovi stimoli dettati dalla necessità di arrampicare su roccia vera, ma senza mettere a rischio la caviglia, mi hanno addirittura portato in falesia! Chi l'avrebbe mai detto... Una prima uscita a Revers, in Valgrisenche (AO), dove sostanzialmente ho scalato da 2 provando senza successo un 7c, stringendo troppo le prese e "overpowering" tutti i movimenti... A dieci metri dal terreno la sirena suona e la festa finisce!

Meglio invece la seconda uscita ieri con Dani a Chenal, falesietta nei dintorni di St.Vincent: tiri brevi, spesso con sezioni di blocco che ne determinano il grado. Dopo il riscaldamento proviamo un 7b+ cortissimo, 4 spit, che mi sembra ampiamente fattibile dopo il primo giro (sempre toprope per la caviglia). Tanto che il giro dopo decido di partire da primo, sentendo buone chances di successo. Sono un po' in apprensione per il mio piede ma vado comunque convinto. Arrivo bene al crux: un allungo da una tacca di sinistro netta ma piccola verso una taschetta discreta ma difficile da centrare; faccio il passo ma come da copione non sento molto bene la presa di destro... E qui l'inaspettato: sono sopra il chiodo ma alzo comunque i piedi e sparo alla presa successiva, un'altra tasca questa volta buona. La prendo ma nello stesso momento mi parte la mano destra e vengo giù. Peccato. Fatto quel movimento la via è praticamente finita... L'impatto sulla parete non fa alcun danno alla caviglia, molto bene! A conti fatti giornata molto positiva. Non solo posso scalare da primo senza troppi patemi per il piede, ma meglio ancora ho visto che non ho nessun problema a volare! Non male visto che l'ultima volta che ho scalato in falesia risale a credo 4 anni fa...

A questo punto penso che ogni tanto, a caviglia guarita, potrei anche concedermi qualche uscita con la corda, su tiri medio-corti. L'obiettivo rimane comunque il boulder, ma se entrasse qualche 8a in falesia non mi farebbe schifo, diciamo...

Ora il programma, al di là della solita riabilitazione, prevede ancora una settimana di trave, fino ad agosto. Poi via di campus board. Conto di poter scalare su blocchi bassi per settembre e, anche se farà ancora caldo, di poter chiudere qualche sospeso a Chironico e Brione per quel periodo.

Until the next...

As strong as you might...

Four weeks ago I was lying in my bed sweating for the pain with a balloon-sized left ankle. I didn't know if some bone, ligament, tendon or muscle were broken. The only thing I knew was that something was really wrong and that my summer projects were unrelentingly drawning down the potty.

Nowadays modern medical science, my physiotherapist girlfriend and another physiotherapist/neighbour/good friend (not counting my inner knowledge and consciousness of the internal processes of my whole body... HA!) gave me a rough idea of what really happened.

On the physical side two ligaments broken and another badly strained one, a slight sprain of my big toe flexor tendon, two microfractures (part of the astragalus and tibia's distal epiphysis) and consistent muscle tear. Fortunately everything, except the muscle tear, seems repaired by now. Ankle is still swollen but I can slowly walk without crutches and I can focus on cautiously training my calf muscles, so weak after almost one month of forced inactivity.

On the [more important] mental side, I kinda surprised myself. I unexpectedly limited my nervous tension without much problems (with exceptions of course, I'm still myself!) and more important I somehow kept my motivation alive and well. Even better: I made up my mind at the point that I now consider this injury as a great chance to fill my power gaps, with a kind of training I would have never ever done if unharmed!

My plan of travelling the Alps in search of fresh granite spots turned immediately into a savage fingerboard/bar training. After three weeks from the accident the pain mostly left my ankle and I felt my fingers, arms, shoulders and abs completely restored and ready to go. Two deadhang sessions to discover that I'm as strong as before. No strenght losses! On tuesday my new Moon fingerboard arrived and after two days of training on it I'm already in love... Light and essential, but challenging if used for single arm deadhangs. Oh and yes, Moonboard holds arrived too... Next weeks my woody will be expanded and set for my comeback with climbing shoes on!

Plan is to keep on fingerboarding and weight lifting until I can safely start with some campus moves. Then I'll start again bouldering on my new board. Then it will be time to crush some hard lowball Swiss problems, in late september I assume. Finally I'll raise my game in october, driving towards Fontainebleau.

Oh yes, that's the plan!

Good news and bad news

As it's two months now since my last post I think I owe my few readers some updates, as many things happened, good and bad ones. I'll try to be brief.

Phase 2 started and lasted, as expected, about 3 weeks, consisting in hard fingerboard+campus sessions and some outdoors bouldering, culminating with the comp at the gym here in St.Pierre (AO). I ended third behind Paolo Leoncini and Ale Catalano, just for a bad reading issue in the final problem. Oh well...

After an active rest week I felt in prime shape and proceeded with my first visit in Brione, on May 2nd. Quick send of classic Atlantis 7C and fuckin' close to Molonk 7C. The area is awesome, granite quality second to none, so clearly I long for a fall comeback, as a fair number of outstanding problems await me. By the way, the day before I cleaned and climbed a new problem in the Piedicavallo area (well not a real area, actually a single big boulder), named "Stratos" after the great Demetrio.

Having declared Ticino's areas too hot to climb hard and waiting for complete snow meltdown in Averstal, I thought it would have been a nice chance to develop something new in the Aosta Valley, a region outrageously rich in rock but poor in boulderers and consequently in boulder areas. After a couple of meetings with young promising locals Stefano and Matthias, I was brought to this "new" area in Valpelline, like 10 minutes drive from my place...

Beautiful wood, quality rock and a few problems already estabilished, plus a whole lotta projects. In three visits I repeated the existing and opened a couple of new ones in the 7B range. Last time (May 20th) I almost topped out a terrific compression prow featuring a very nasty right hand crimp on the crux, but being alone I was afraid of missing the hold on the last jump, fairly off the deck... So I jumped down post crux, sure to come back soon with a spotter. Oh how wrong I was!

The next day I went back to Biella and arranged a late afternoon session with some friends in Donato. After warming up I set a new linkup at around 7B, with a nice power move. Feeling good and having good time with friends I decided to have a go on "Le invasioni barbariche", vertical and crimpy 7A/+ I opened more than a year ago, problem I use to repeat every time I come here as it's truly worth the effort. But this time the unexpected happened: on the crux move (a right hand lockoff trusting on a poor left foot smear) I random put my left foot on the wall, in a slightly different position than usual. While my left hand was flowing to the last positive crimp my left foot popped and in a blink of an eye I was hitting the ground. My right foot hit the pad, but my body position clearly wasn't balanced and I rolled on my left ankle. I immediately knew that prolly no bone was broken but at the same time big damage occurred, and no fun was in sight for me in the next weeks. I couldn't charge my foot anyhow, so helped from my friends (thanks A LOT Marco, Dani and Silvio, who even carried me on his shoulders on the steepest part of the track!) I slowly crawled towards the car for about half-an-hour, since we were quite distant.

Now almost 3 weeks passed by and the situation is: serious ankle sprain, in which almost surely 2 ligaments have broken and another one is damaged; as the results of today's RM will come next week nothing is still definitive. Anyway healing is going well, pain has gone and I'm finally able to start again on the fingerboard. I'll try to look at this injury in the best possible way: I have the chance to build up a lot of strenght, focusing on my weak points. I hope to be able to climb again in september, but who knows??

These were briefly the april/may news. A more introspective post will follow soon, as I had a lot of time to reflect about climbing and other few things.

Til the next, syked nevertheless!!

End of Phase I

As I said before, with the summer hot day in Chironico today I officially end Phase I and smoothly enter Phase II.

For the history, today me and Dani climbed some nice but moderate problems (that you may check up in my 8a.nu logbook), as the forementioned temps did not allow better performances. Nice though, as it was good to climb on almost everything we liked totally regardless of the grade. I guess that's the way it should always be, but on this point I still have doubts.

Anyway I tried my best to do what I was supposed to do, read climb Doctor Pinch. Something like 4 or 5 attempts around 10.30am, just after our arrival+warmup, with the bloc surface partially sunbathing and the holds too greasy for me to use them successfully. Then another mini-session at around 4.30pm, as we had to leave early, with better condition in the shade. First go of this session I precisely climbed from the start to the final long lockoff/deadpoint, a link I never managed to do before, but soreness prevented me to stop on the good final sloper and I returned on the pads. With time pressure on me I tried two more times but was way too tired so I had to sack it.

I can't complain or recriminate as I gave all I got, climbing perfectly until the last move, which for me is a low percentage on the link. Still a bitter taste remains, as it would have been the cherry on the cake, after a very good period... But that's how it goes. Sending that problem today with those temps and after a whole day climbing would have been a sort of magic and a sign that I should move to harder tasks. But I think I still have to gain a lot of experience in this grade range.

Now time for Phase II, which will involve some fingerboard and campus training in April and some more outdoors climbing in May, especially in Magic Wood I hope. I think I'll have time to work on some local projects too, so check out http://www.blockage.it/ as I hope to have some news on that side pretty soon.

Until the next update... Psyched as ever!!

Bound to the forest

After the swiss weekend I set sails off to Fontainebleau again, with Sarah this time.

First days between tuesday 24.3 and thursday 26.3 were spent in Broceliande, wonderful forest in Bretagne, surrounded by small lakes and fountains. Legend says that Merlin lies here, buried but undead, charmed by an ancient Morgana's spell... Amongst the many druid's tombs, we also had the chance to visit a 1000 years old oak, an amazing experience since the energy this primaeval being emanates is unique! Mad to think that about a millenium ago from a simple little acorn such a majestic tree was born... On a side it put me in the right perspective of nothingness, something that humans tend to forget, while on the other side it made me reflect about how a little and almost unseen thing can develop in time, being able to survive storms, battles, winters, fires... No limits can be put on will power, be it will to live and grow or to climb a hard piece of rock, that is!

On friday 27.3 I had my first climbing day and plan was to get rid of La bérézina-Carnage, soft 7C+. It wasn't the case though, as after some fruitless attempts on the second move I decided it was time to quit, having enough of doing the same move over and over. In retrospective I'm not that psyched on the problem, having already done the two main lines on the wall, but I knew that starting with a tick would have given me confidence for the other projects. Anyway, move on!

Late afternoon I went to check Conviction 8A again after my previous trip and though I didn't manage to do it, it was a positive session as I found what will be my definitive beta. Two powerful moves that I usually can do with no big deal followed by a low percentage (at least for me) last crank to a finger jug. Holding the possible swing ends the problem and leads to an easy mantle. I think I can do the problem now, but some more conviction, as the boulder suggests, is required.

Saturday was rest day, spent with Sarah mostly looking for a house in the surroundings. Yes! We're thinking about moving to the french countryside, maybe have a horse or two, drink wine and eat a whole lotta grenouilles... Just kidding of course, but dreaming a life near this wonderful sandstone isn't forbidden.

Sunday was climbing time again, but my timing and spot selection were completely wrong! I went to Conviction early in the morning, when the sun hits the already poor holds making them unusable, at least for me. So I had to wait again for late afternoon for temps to cool down. I wanted to check the Cassepot area, which was new to me. A lot of french guys were trying Double and Triple axel, my first goals for the session, so I preferred to move on to Cent pofs et sans reproche, in search of some tranquillity. The 7C problem consists in three moderate moves followed by a hard one from two pinches off to a slopey crack. After matching the crack a topout on good slopers ends the effort. I tried some different methods then choose mine and had some quite good goes, almost sticking the crux. By this time skin was over and I called it a day.

Tuesday was our last day and I wanted to get the most of it, but with hot temps I knew I had to make better choices than I did on sunday.

After a proper breakfast I headed towards a desert Rocher du Cassepot, a wonderful light surrounded me and a fresh breeze was blowing. I immediately elected the area as one of my all-time favourites, both for the environment and the great quality of problems and sandstone. I warmed up on a very nice 6B on the Double axel bloc and then moved to the main meal. Double axel 7A+ is the best problem I climbed in this grade and probably one of the best ever! It tackles a slightly overhanging prow, starting from two slopy crimps up to a perfect sloper/pinch left hand and ends with a glorious leg flick jump to the topout sloper, a movement every boulderer would dream of! I believe another intermediate vertical crimp can be used to break the jump in two, but I was eager to climb it directly, and so did I. After a while I had climbed the sitstart too, a soft 7B+ named Triple axel that adds some easy moves to the standing start. Awesome. I was feeling so good topping out these problems, mainly because they're simply great and secondarily because it was a confirmation of my current level, i.e. I can comfortably climb in the 7B/7C range sending in few tries and most important of all with a lot of fun.

I then moved to Cent pofs, where on my second attempt I hit the crack and matched! Unfortunately I messed on the last rockover and fell post crux like a punter, unbelievable... Looking at my fingertips after the fall I noticed a hole in my left ring finger, nooo! Having in mind a final assault on Conviction in the late afternoon I sadly stopped trying, knowing that next time I'll take it home for sure, another proof of what I said before.

Last effort, as said, was for the Rumont's 8A. After poor warmup on the moves of Serenité 7B, I had to wait 19pm to have decent conditions, then I pulled on and made three very good attempts, close on the final move. Then my tips were bruised and I had to admit temporary defeat. Packing up I had the pleasure to talk a bit to Christian Roumégoux, true bleausard and nice guy, who was trying Conviction too.

Wednesday we drove back to Aosta and I only regret about the quasi-send of Cent pofs, a problem I would have really liked to ascend. Anyway, october is not far away and I hope, with a bit of luck on my side, to be able to make a month long trip in that period, we'll see!

In the meanwhile I have a lot of power to build on these months and a great motivation to do so! Then there are the many projects in Magic Wood and a couple of lines I want to tackle near my hometown Biella, lying there and waiting just for me to be climbed.

On monday April 6th I'll be in Chironico to complete Doctor Pinch 7C+ and then I'll officially declare End of Part I for 2009.

A la prochaine!

Super size me

After the ascent of Big dragon, that was my main purpose for 2009, I felt somehow relaxed and willing to climb a bit on easier problems, just enjoying fresh air, good moves and happy times.
So I opted for a 3 days weekend in Chironico on my fourwheeled home with Dani and Miki, with no particular ambition.
Saturday conditions were prime, but we were tired and knew there weren't chances for climbing hard. Anyway I figured out all the moves but one of Doctor Pinch, a steep prow rated 8A+ in the guidebook, which actually stands in the 7C/+ range. Then climbed a hard 7A dihedral called Globetrotter, trying to save some skin for sunday.
Unfortunately saturday night wasn't a good one for me, as the 0.5kg chips eaten before dinner resulted in me puking under the shining stars and in the middle of the parking...
I thought no chances for climbing tomorrow, but unexpectedly I woke up in a decent shape and good weather and gentle breeze made the rest for my psyche.
We slowly warmed up at the Barriera sector and before leaving towards Dani's project Doctor Crimp I took a minute to have a look at Super size me 7C+, a seldom repeated vertical wall featuring distant but moderately positive crimps. I decided to have a flash go, just to check if I could do the first move out left. I did it but fell on the second move messing with right foot placement. I quickly made the decision it was worth some tries, as it looked feasible. I quickly dispatched the other two moves, knowing that an easy topout would follow. I set up for my second go from start, with just one pad as Dani was elsewhere finishing warmup. I made my way to the final move with ease. Now it was just one last crank from good crimps to a supposedly positive but slopey top. I looked down and failing would have meant landing outside the pad and on the rock. I hesitated more and more, got finally pumped and had to jump down. I couldn't believe it! Helpless punter... Five minutes later Dani and another pad arrived, but I was still pumped... Third try I felt terrible and had the feeling of failing passing through my mind. But no! I kept composure and on my fourth go I precisely executed the three hard moves and then cruised to the top, surprised by the hugeness of the last hold.
Later on we met Nick, who had just crushed Souvenir 8A and No mystery 8A. Dani and I did a nice 7A called Schwarzes loch, then we all moved to Freak brothers 8A+, another project of mine but not for the day, where Nick went really close but finally gave up and where Dani flashed the compression/mantle problem called Tomahawk 7B+!
On our way to the parking I tried a bit more the missing move on Doctor Pinch, stopping after sticking it twice in order to save a little bit of skin for monday morning.
Sunday night was smooth and without unnatural stomach behaviours, but monday morning fingertips were on fire. After a painful warmup I had some good goes on Doctor Pinch, falling three times post crux due to massive pain in my tips. Wisely we called it a day and headed back home...

Big dragon footage

Here it is... Wonderful soundtrack by Bozzio/Levin/Stevens.

Fontainebleau - Big dragon 8A+ from Marco Pelle on Vimeo.

Back to the village

After the send of Big dragon I wanted to do at least one other problem from my infinite ticklist, so I chose superclassic La bérézina, that I felt very close last time. First 7C of the forest and peculiar crux on perfect slopers. After a rainy rest day I went to Cuvier on thursday, no sun and really cold. Few people and holds brand new after the rain. Nice. I chalked up and after few minutes I managed to do the first two great moves, then made my way up to the easy but slopy topout. Outstanding problem! After some skin devastating attempts on Controle technique 7C+, actually a bit wet, I called it a day.

On friday sun and wind cheered the forest, but my skin was really damaged, so I decided to spot Michele on one of his projects and in the meantime have a look at Conviction, a 3 moves powerful 8A. Michele sent it in a few tries after figuring out his beta, so I was psyched for the next day, just hoping in good weather.

Saturday was my last day, so I had to empty the tank, no skin or strenght to be saved for the day after! I warmed up at Isatis then moved to the quiet Coquibus Rumont area, where Conviction lies. Unfortunately it crushed me. Once I figured out my beta, my skin was bad and humidity was high. I packed my things and went to Cuvier, hoping to find better conditions. There weren't, but at least I kept climbing until sunset, leaving the place with the feeling of having done everything possible.

It's true that I climbed only 2 hard problems in 10 days here, much more could have been done (as usual!)... But the sweet sensation of topping out 'those' problems will remain for a long time...

Big dragon

On tuesday I woke up feeling great, with new skin and ready for the battle. Sun was shining but it was cold. Conditions were clearly good. Weather forecast announced rain for wednesday, so I knew I had to be accurate and complete my task.

I moved to Petit Bois early, warmed up and noticed that rock wasn't as grippy as I expected. But I remained positive and started my attempts on Big dragon. I thought first ones would have been the best ones, but I was wrong. I was still cold and so were the holds. I rested for about 30 minutes, sun came out and temp raised a bit. Every now and then wind was blowing. Now it was the right time. A couple of tries always falling at the same point made me understand better the delicate and precise body placement for the crux. Again. I did the first moves with ease, spike felt ok, left foot well placed and so the right heel. Left hand hit the bad sloper and my body was tight. I looked up and the jug was there, few inches. I went for it precisely, heel popped followed by right hand but this time I had it good enough to hold the swing. In a rush of adrenaline I topped out and released an uncontrolled scream. Yes. I was on top.

Fontainebleau - First days

And it is Fontainebleau again.

I constantly visited every possible weather forecast website during february and finally predictions were good! So off to FB on 26.2.

First day I unwisely decided to immediately test my strenght on the very project of the trip, Big dragon 8A+. Best choice would have been a couple of days of easy climbing to regain good feelings on the forest's sandstone, but I was way too psyched and had to try the problem on which I was so close last time. Anyway, I just did 5 or 6 tries and again I fell on last move with my right heel popping of the arete. I knew it was possible. Then I moved to Cuvier for some easier climbing, but ended trying a muerte Hypothèse 7C+ and La bérézina 7C...

Next day I just had some morning goes on La bérézina, basicly thrashing my right hand skin a bit more, so I stopped for the rest of the day, just spotting Jan and Paul (nice guys from Belgium and UK, met the day before).

Third day was sunday, good temps and a bit of skin left to challenge the dragon. This session has been a very good one for many reasons. First of all I understood how to exactly hold the spike, saving some pain and blood. Second I understood that after some tries the first two moves are heinous, due to the tension you have to keep in the lower back. So not many tries that can be 'the good one'. And finally I got higher as ever, reaching the jug with my tips but being unable to hold the big swing when right heel and hand popped. So close...

After this session I needed a rest day, so on monday I made up my mind and tried to recover as much as I could, both muscles and skin.

Granite before Heaven

After the glorious day in Cresciano I luckily had some very pleasant climbing days here and there, so let's start in chronological order...

CUBO.

I had one session on my neverending nightmare Coretex, a very hard 7C slab at Cubo, my usual halfday boulder spot. Conditions were perfect, 6° sunny and windy, and my skin was good too. After warming up I set the camera and did good on my first try of the day. Second one was even better. Third try I grabbed the last nasty tiny pinch left hand, jumped and hit the last flat jug only with my tips, holding the swing for a split second then landed on the pad. I knew next one it would have gone. With confidence I hit each hold perfectly, took the micro-pinch and squeezed as hard as I could. After having done the superdelicate footswitch I was ready for the final jump and 100% sure I would grab the top and end the nightmare when... my left hand ripped the pinch and once again the pad welcomed my ass! I was pissed off! Now I have to find another beta and I don't know if I really want to make the effort. Damn'it!

CRESCIANO.

Then it was swiss time again. Unfortunately good conditions were fading and a quite hot sunny day saw our arrival. Anyway I managed to have a quite good day, as I dispatched in a couple of goes Yuri Gagarin, a crimpy soft 7B+ that ends with a nice dyno to a good sloper. Then I made the maybe first (?) repetition of Gianluca Bosetti's traverse Ieri e domani, a problem that starts with the nice crux move of U-Turn 7B then goes right using slopy crimps and a heelhook and ends with an easy 6A+ mantle. All for a 7B+ traverse. Finally I did the superclassics Vol au vent 7A and Frocio multiplo 6C+, wonderful and hard for the grade slab climbing! Absolutely recommended.

How to loot Cresciano

After lots of rain, snow and every kind of weather abuse this anticlimbing god could have sent on northwestern Italy, finally for the middle weekend of february the forecast looked good on almost every spot.

Formerly I planned to go to Fontainebleau for a week, in order to get Big dragon 8A+ done and some 7C classics of course. Unfortunately weather was rather uncertain, as usual in the forest, so I decided to keep on training, getting more solidity and having one or two days trips in Ticino or Varazze, waiting for march to head for the Mecca.

I called Nick and we decided for Cresciano on saturday 14.2 and Varazze the next day.

We arrived in Cresciano welcomed by cold, soft wind and sun. We met in the parking a few other friends and spirits were high! While our friends headed for La boule sector to try their projects, Nick and I warmed up on a couple of easy problems near La grotte des soupirs. End of warmup was a short 7A traverse named Pixel. It was clear that conditions were prime and we hoped for a crushing day.

We moved to Xp, a soft one move 7C bloc that starts from a big undercling with marginal footholds and goes up to a good hold. After the physical move an easy topout ends the problem. Nick sent it fast and I followed some minutes later... I just had to avoid the dab with my right foot. Now we were sure a good day was on.

Right after Nicky sent effortless the standing start of Jungle book, rated 7C. Then the original problem called Crossing the jungle, which adds a short traverse to the stand. Soft 8A. And finally after some tries figuring out the second and third move, he proceeded to crush the sit start, given hard 8A. Well done! Good day turned to great.

I would have liked to try at least the standing start, but my index finger was hurting on the starting hold, so I called me out.

Another boulder I wanted to check was Fantoman 7C, in the Dreamtime area. We searched for it with no chance for half an hour, then pissed off moved to Dreamtime.

Conditions were still perfect. I felt a bit weak and decided not to try the stand, as I feared a way too negative feedback from the problem. Obviously I know I can't do it in a session, but I want to feel at my best when I'll seriously try it.

Nicky made a couple of attempts to figure out the first dyno, then moved to the upper part. He had some problems with the left hand crimp and the two following right hand slaps, but we both realized he could do it. Then he had a very good go, falling at the last slap! Now he just had to remain focused and rest some minutes. It was possible. He had some more goes but fell earlier... The conditions worsened a bit and with the arrival of other people somehow the magic was disappearing. I thought he had one more go, then the others trying it and the sun setting would have compromised the grip.

He jumped and hit the first hold well, moved on and catched the left hand crimp very well. Then the last two slaps. A moderate swing leaded him to the last holds and finally he topped out! Yes! Dreamtime stand 8A/+ in more or less one hour sesh. Not that bad for a 15 years old boy...

Psyched as ever and with the sun setting, we decided to have a last look for Fantoman and we immediately found it this time. Looking back it is clear that the hand of the almighty guided us away from this problem so that Dreamtime could be ascended at the right time...

Nick wisely called it a day (saving some energy for Varazze) while I went on with my flash attempt. It wasn't too bad, falling at the second hard move, but probably I was a bit cold... I tried the single moves then fell on the topout on my third go, due to very approximate cleaning of the last two holds. Amateur. Fortunately my fourth try was the good one, so I was quickly standing on another soft but awesome swiss 7C.

Day was finally over and I might say it will be one of those I will remember for a while...

Will

After my finger injury I made the decision to carry on with the hard training, hoping to get in a good shape for the middle of february.

Main target was obviously open hand strenght. I wanted to prevent my index finger from crimping and increase the power on slopers and pinches. Unexpectedly I felt great even without crimping, even if this has always been my forte! So after a week of training I was psyched and willing to test my strenght, crushing Messa delle streghe in Varazze, a problem that doesn't require right hand crimping and has become an epic, due to compulsive misunderstanding of the beta and constant bad conditions of the lower part.

Saturday 31.1 I left Biella alone, with a strong feeling of confidence and psyche, even though weather forecasts were a bit uncertain. I was sure that would be the day.

The arrival in Varazze was not promising anyway, heavy rain was pouring down! Instead of getting upset I strangely kept my confidence and when I got to the boulders rain stopped. Good sign.

Unfortunately everything was wet and the lower part of Messa was soaked, much more than the previous times I attempted it. I was still sure I could do it. I calmly proceeded to dry the key right pinch, a bit humid. No way to do so with the footholds, as the wet crack above refreshed them with clear and pure water in a continuous matter.

After a very approximate warmup deadhanging on the two edges of the problem, I set the camera and began. Feelings weren't as good as I expected, mainly because I was still cold.

After half an hour I had a good go, falling at the last move before the dyno to the final jug. I took 10 minutes to hike around, smelling the scents of the wet woods and listening to the birds tweeting. Sun came out. I was alone. Now I knew it was the time.

I returned to the problem, made my way on the lower part using the soaked footholds and executed the remaining moves, grabbing the final big hold with a liberating scream. Epic was over.

Feeling strong and happy, I figured out the moves of the nearby 7B called Ganimede and with my own beta I satched it up on my fourth try.

I was satisfied. With this great feeling and the certainty that my will power is something I can truly rely on, I packed and left.

January update - Snow is in the air

Here I am after some 2 months since my last post...

First of all, this blog from now on will be written in English. I'm sorry for those who won't perfectly understand but hey!! Time to get global dudes...

2008 has ended and I can say I'm quite satisfied with my climbing results. Main goals for the year were doing one 8A (La balance sans la prise taillée, even if it's at the very bottom end of the grade) and some 7C and 7C+ in different areas and on different rock, which I have done. Then a bunch of 7B/+ possibly in a few goes.

The only thing I haven't accomplished was entering the first 40 places in the national bouldering ranking, that would have made possible for me to compete in the Italian bouldering cup. I discovered I suck on plastic, more than I thought. At least the regional comps I did at the beginnig of the year proved to be a great training for outdoor bouldering.

So, as said, I'm satisfied. And for two reasons. First of all I have completed almost all the tasks I planned. And second, and maybe even more important, these accomplishments tell me that my self-judging ability is quite refined.

So I guess I will be able to set feasible goals for 2009 and I hope this will lead to more successes and related self confidence...

Now. 2009 has started quite well, with a couple of 7Bs in Varazze and the quasi-send of La messa delle streghe 7C and Excalibur 7C. When I'll come back I hope it will be a few minutes affair. Moreover I tried some of the single moves on the standing start of Gioia 8A+, and I hope to be able to do them all. For the linkup I really don't know... maybe at the end of the year if I improve my shape.

Then in Cresciano I did a one move problem rated 7B, another short (and frankly overrated) 7C called Prost and had a very good sesh on La nave va 7C+ (aka La rondella alta), falling two times at the last move. Absolutely doable. Good thing as it is widely considered hard for the grade.

On the bad side I did my first regional comp for this season, where I puntered hard on relatively easy problems... With that I mean many goes and always falling last move or so... Moreover on a very crimpy problem I injured my right index finger again (it was recovering after the session on Sofa surfer in september, where the pain started). So bad placement, few points earned and worst af all injured finger...

I still can climb but I have to be very careful with right crimps, possibly avoiding them. Sadly it's not that easy to find 7C and over problems where you don't crimp right hand... But that's it. Open hand training awaits me...

Speaking of the new goals... I won't go in details, but briefly I'd like to improve the maximum level I can climb, thus trying to send an 8A+ and a couple of 8As. Then I have some established problems that I'd like to repeat, regardless of the grade. And more important, some really cool and potentially hard lines await the FA.

The guiding line for 2009, however, will be 'quality not quantity'... so I'll try to climb awesome boulders with good rock and moves, rather than climbing exclusively for the difficulty aspect.