Big dragon footage

Here it is... Wonderful soundtrack by Bozzio/Levin/Stevens.

Fontainebleau - Big dragon 8A+ from Marco Pelle on Vimeo.

Back to the village

After the send of Big dragon I wanted to do at least one other problem from my infinite ticklist, so I chose superclassic La bérézina, that I felt very close last time. First 7C of the forest and peculiar crux on perfect slopers. After a rainy rest day I went to Cuvier on thursday, no sun and really cold. Few people and holds brand new after the rain. Nice. I chalked up and after few minutes I managed to do the first two great moves, then made my way up to the easy but slopy topout. Outstanding problem! After some skin devastating attempts on Controle technique 7C+, actually a bit wet, I called it a day.

On friday sun and wind cheered the forest, but my skin was really damaged, so I decided to spot Michele on one of his projects and in the meantime have a look at Conviction, a 3 moves powerful 8A. Michele sent it in a few tries after figuring out his beta, so I was psyched for the next day, just hoping in good weather.

Saturday was my last day, so I had to empty the tank, no skin or strenght to be saved for the day after! I warmed up at Isatis then moved to the quiet Coquibus Rumont area, where Conviction lies. Unfortunately it crushed me. Once I figured out my beta, my skin was bad and humidity was high. I packed my things and went to Cuvier, hoping to find better conditions. There weren't, but at least I kept climbing until sunset, leaving the place with the feeling of having done everything possible.

It's true that I climbed only 2 hard problems in 10 days here, much more could have been done (as usual!)... But the sweet sensation of topping out 'those' problems will remain for a long time...

Big dragon

On tuesday I woke up feeling great, with new skin and ready for the battle. Sun was shining but it was cold. Conditions were clearly good. Weather forecast announced rain for wednesday, so I knew I had to be accurate and complete my task.

I moved to Petit Bois early, warmed up and noticed that rock wasn't as grippy as I expected. But I remained positive and started my attempts on Big dragon. I thought first ones would have been the best ones, but I was wrong. I was still cold and so were the holds. I rested for about 30 minutes, sun came out and temp raised a bit. Every now and then wind was blowing. Now it was the right time. A couple of tries always falling at the same point made me understand better the delicate and precise body placement for the crux. Again. I did the first moves with ease, spike felt ok, left foot well placed and so the right heel. Left hand hit the bad sloper and my body was tight. I looked up and the jug was there, few inches. I went for it precisely, heel popped followed by right hand but this time I had it good enough to hold the swing. In a rush of adrenaline I topped out and released an uncontrolled scream. Yes. I was on top.

Fontainebleau - First days

And it is Fontainebleau again.

I constantly visited every possible weather forecast website during february and finally predictions were good! So off to FB on 26.2.

First day I unwisely decided to immediately test my strenght on the very project of the trip, Big dragon 8A+. Best choice would have been a couple of days of easy climbing to regain good feelings on the forest's sandstone, but I was way too psyched and had to try the problem on which I was so close last time. Anyway, I just did 5 or 6 tries and again I fell on last move with my right heel popping of the arete. I knew it was possible. Then I moved to Cuvier for some easier climbing, but ended trying a muerte Hypothèse 7C+ and La bérézina 7C...

Next day I just had some morning goes on La bérézina, basicly thrashing my right hand skin a bit more, so I stopped for the rest of the day, just spotting Jan and Paul (nice guys from Belgium and UK, met the day before).

Third day was sunday, good temps and a bit of skin left to challenge the dragon. This session has been a very good one for many reasons. First of all I understood how to exactly hold the spike, saving some pain and blood. Second I understood that after some tries the first two moves are heinous, due to the tension you have to keep in the lower back. So not many tries that can be 'the good one'. And finally I got higher as ever, reaching the jug with my tips but being unable to hold the big swing when right heel and hand popped. So close...

After this session I needed a rest day, so on monday I made up my mind and tried to recover as much as I could, both muscles and skin.