Monday 2 March 2009

Fontainebleau - First days

And it is Fontainebleau again.
I constantly visited every possible weather forecast website during february and finally predictions were good! So off to FB on 26.2.
First day I unwisely decided to immediately test my strenght on the very project of the trip, Big dragon 8A+. Best choice would have been a couple of days of easy climbing to regain good feelings on the forest's sandstone, but I was way too psyched and had to try the problem on which I was so close last time. Anyway, I just did 5 or 6 tries and again I fell on last move with my right heel popping of the arete. I knew it was possible. Then I moved to Cuvier for some easier climbing, but ended trying a muerte Hypothèse 7C+ and La bérézina 7C...
Next day I just had some morning goes on La bérézina, basicly thrashing my right hand skin a bit more, so I stopped for the rest of the day, just spotting Jan and Paul (nice guys from Belgium and UK, met the day before).
Third day was sunday, good temps and a bit of skin left to challenge the dragon. This session has been a very good one for many reasons. First of all I understood how to exactly hold the spike, saving some pain and blood. Second I understood that after some tries the first two moves are heinous, due to the tension you have to keep in the lower back. So not many tries that can be 'the good one'. And finally I got higher as ever, reaching the jug with my tips but being unable to hold the big swing when right heel and hand popped. So close...
After this session I needed a rest day, so on monday I made up my mind and tried to recover as much as I could, both muscles and skin.

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