Sunday 8 March 2009

Back to the village

After the send of Big dragon I wanted to do at least one other problem from my infinite ticklist, so I chose superclassic La bérézina, that I felt very close last time. First 7C of the forest and peculiar crux on perfect slopers. After a rainy rest day I went to Cuvier on thursday, no sun and really cold. Few people and holds brand new after the rain. Nice. I chalked up and after few minutes I managed to do the first two great moves, then made my way up to the easy but slopy topout. Outstanding problem! After some skin devastating attempts on Controle technique 7C+, actually a bit wet, I called it a day.
On friday sun and wind cheered the forest, but my skin was really damaged, so I decided to spot Michele on one of his projects and in the meantime have a look at Conviction, a 3 moves powerful 8A. Michele sent it in a few tries after figuring out his beta, so I was psyched for the next day, just hoping in good weather.
Saturday was my last day, so I had to empty the tank, no skin or strenght to be saved for the day after! I warmed up at Isatis then moved to the quiet Coquibus Rumont area, where Conviction lies. Unfortunately it crushed me. Once I figured out my beta, my skin was bad and humidity was high. I packed my things and went to Cuvier, hoping to find better conditions. There weren't, but at least I kept climbing until sunset, leaving the place with the feeling of having done everything possible.
It's true that I climbed only 2 hard problems in 10 days here, much more could have been done (as usual!)... But the sweet sensation of topping out 'those' problems will remain for a long time...

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