After the swiss weekend I set sails off to Fontainebleau again, with Sarah this time.
First days between tuesday 24.3 and thursday 26.3 were spent in Broceliande, wonderful forest in Bretagne, surrounded by small lakes and fountains. Legend says that Merlin lies here, buried but undead, charmed by an ancient Morgana's spell... Amongst the many druid's tombs, we also had the chance to visit a 1000 years old oak, an amazing experience since the energy this primaeval being emanates is unique! Mad to think that about a millenium ago from a simple little acorn such a majestic tree was born... On a side it put me in the right perspective of nothingness, something that humans tend to forget, while on the other side it made me reflect about how a little and almost unseen thing can develop in time, being able to survive storms, battles, winters, fires... No limits can be put on will power, be it will to live and grow or to climb a hard piece of rock, that is!
On friday 27.3 I had my first climbing day and plan was to get rid of La bérézina-Carnage, soft 7C+. It wasn't the case though, as after some fruitless attempts on the second move I decided it was time to quit, having enough of doing the same move over and over. In retrospective I'm not that psyched on the problem, having already done the two main lines on the wall, but I knew that starting with a tick would have given me confidence for the other projects. Anyway, move on!
Late afternoon I went to check Conviction 8A again after my previous trip and though I didn't manage to do it, it was a positive session as I found what will be my definitive beta. Two powerful moves that I usually can do with no big deal followed by a low percentage (at least for me) last crank to a finger jug. Holding the possible swing ends the problem and leads to an easy mantle. I think I can do the problem now, but some more conviction, as the boulder suggests, is required.
Saturday was rest day, spent with Sarah mostly looking for a house in the surroundings. Yes! We're thinking about moving to the french countryside, maybe have a horse or two, drink wine and eat a whole lotta grenouilles... Just kidding of course, but dreaming a life near this wonderful sandstone isn't forbidden.
Sunday was climbing time again, but my timing and spot selection were completely wrong! I went to Conviction early in the morning, when the sun hits the already poor holds making them unusable, at least for me. So I had to wait again for late afternoon for temps to cool down. I wanted to check the Cassepot area, which was new to me. A lot of french guys were trying Double and Triple axel, my first goals for the session, so I preferred to move on to Cent pofs et sans reproche, in search of some tranquillity. The 7C problem consists in three moderate moves followed by a hard one from two pinches off to a slopey crack. After matching the crack a topout on good slopers ends the effort. I tried some different methods then choose mine and had some quite good goes, almost sticking the crux. By this time skin was over and I called it a day.
Tuesday was our last day and I wanted to get the most of it, but with hot temps I knew I had to make better choices than I did on sunday.
After a proper breakfast I headed towards a desert Rocher du Cassepot, a wonderful light surrounded me and a fresh breeze was blowing. I immediately elected the area as one of my all-time favourites, both for the environment and the great quality of problems and sandstone. I warmed up on a very nice 6B on the Double axel bloc and then moved to the main meal. Double axel 7A+ is the best problem I climbed in this grade and probably one of the best ever! It tackles a slightly overhanging prow, starting from two slopy crimps up to a perfect sloper/pinch left hand and ends with a glorious leg flick jump to the topout sloper, a movement every boulderer would dream of! I believe another intermediate vertical crimp can be used to break the jump in two, but I was eager to climb it directly, and so did I. After a while I had climbed the sitstart too, a soft 7B+ named Triple axel that adds some easy moves to the standing start. Awesome. I was feeling so good topping out these problems, mainly because they're simply great and secondarily because it was a confirmation of my current level, i.e. I can comfortably climb in the 7B/7C range sending in few tries and most important of all with a lot of fun.
I then moved to Cent pofs, where on my second attempt I hit the crack and matched! Unfortunately I messed on the last rockover and fell post crux like a punter, unbelievable... Looking at my fingertips after the fall I noticed a hole in my left ring finger, nooo! Having in mind a final assault on Conviction in the late afternoon I sadly stopped trying, knowing that next time I'll take it home for sure, another proof of what I said before.
Last effort, as said, was for the Rumont's 8A. After poor warmup on the moves of Serenité 7B, I had to wait 19pm to have decent conditions, then I pulled on and made three very good attempts, close on the final move. Then my tips were bruised and I had to admit temporary defeat. Packing up I had the pleasure to talk a bit to Christian Roumégoux, true bleausard and nice guy, who was trying Conviction too.
Wednesday we drove back to Aosta and I only regret about the quasi-send of Cent pofs, a problem I would have really liked to ascend. Anyway, october is not far away and I hope, with a bit of luck on my side, to be able to make a month long trip in that period, we'll see!
In the meanwhile I have a lot of power to build on these months and a great motivation to do so! Then there are the many projects in Magic Wood and a couple of lines I want to tackle near my hometown Biella, lying there and waiting just for me to be climbed.
On monday April 6th I'll be in Chironico to complete Doctor Pinch 7C+ and then I'll officially declare End of Part I for 2009.
A la prochaine!
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