Tuesday 7 April 2009

End of Phase I

As I said before, with the summer hot day in Chironico today I officially end Phase I and smoothly enter Phase II.

For the history, today me and Dani climbed some nice but moderate problems (that you may check up in my 8a.nu logbook), as the forementioned temps did not allow better performances. Nice though, as it was good to climb on almost everything we liked totally regardless of the grade. I guess that's the way it should always be, but on this point I still have doubts.
Anyway I tried my best to do what I was supposed to do, read climb Doctor Pinch. Something like 4 or 5 attempts around 10.30am, just after our arrival+warmup, with the bloc surface partially sunbathing and the holds too greasy for me to use them successfully. Then another mini-session at around 4.30pm, as we had to leave early, with better condition in the shade. First go of this session I precisely climbed from the start to the final long lockoff/deadpoint, a link I never managed to do before, but soreness prevented me to stop on the good final sloper and I returned on the pads. With time pressure on me I tried two more times but was way too tired so I had to sack it.

I can't complain or recriminate as I gave all I got, climbing perfectly until the last move, which for me is a low percentage on the link. Still a bitter taste remains, as it would have been the cherry on the cake, after a very good period... But that's how it goes. Sending that problem today with those temps and after a whole day climbing would have been a sort of magic and a sign that I should move to harder tasks. But I think I still have to gain a lot of experience in this grade range.

Now time for Phase II, which will involve some fingerboard and campus training in April and some more outdoors climbing in May, especially in Magic Wood I hope. I think I'll have time to work on some local projects too, so check out http://www.blockage.it/ as I hope to have some news on that side pretty soon.

Until the next update... Psyched as ever!!

2 comments:

lore said...

doctor pinch is on my ticklist also.
if i go on NOT GOING TO TICINO i seriously doubt it will go down.
is it a good problem? i really think so.
see you soon
lore.

Pellet said...

hey lore! doctor pinch is not so good looking but moves are cool, basicly one crux move in the middle and the last long move which isn't that hard in itself but for sure not easy on the linkup. after going so close I think 7C+ is appropriate. let me know if you plan a trip in ticino or eventually magic wood, maybe we can climb together... see you!