After the ascent of Big dragon, that was my main purpose for 2009, I felt somehow relaxed and willing to climb a bit on easier problems, just enjoying fresh air, good moves and happy times.
So I opted for a 3 days weekend in Chironico on my fourwheeled home with Dani and Miki, with no particular ambition.
Saturday conditions were prime, but we were tired and knew there weren't chances for climbing hard. Anyway I figured out all the moves but one of Doctor Pinch, a steep prow rated 8A+ in the guidebook, which actually stands in the 7C/+ range. Then climbed a hard 7A dihedral called Globetrotter, trying to save some skin for sunday.
Unfortunately saturday night wasn't a good one for me, as the 0.5kg chips eaten before dinner resulted in me puking under the shining stars and in the middle of the parking...
I thought no chances for climbing tomorrow, but unexpectedly I woke up in a decent shape and good weather and gentle breeze made the rest for my psyche.
We slowly warmed up at the Barriera sector and before leaving towards Dani's project Doctor Crimp I took a minute to have a look at Super size me 7C+, a seldom repeated vertical wall featuring distant but moderately positive crimps. I decided to have a flash go, just to check if I could do the first move out left. I did it but fell on the second move messing with right foot placement. I quickly made the decision it was worth some tries, as it looked feasible. I quickly dispatched the other two moves, knowing that an easy topout would follow. I set up for my second go from start, with just one pad as Dani was elsewhere finishing warmup. I made my way to the final move with ease. Now it was just one last crank from good crimps to a supposedly positive but slopey top. I looked down and failing would have meant landing outside the pad and on the rock. I hesitated more and more, got finally pumped and had to jump down. I couldn't believe it! Helpless punter... Five minutes later Dani and another pad arrived, but I was still pumped... Third try I felt terrible and had the feeling of failing passing through my mind. But no! I kept composure and on my fourth go I precisely executed the three hard moves and then cruised to the top, surprised by the hugeness of the last hold.
Later on we met Nick, who had just crushed Souvenir 8A and No mystery 8A. Dani and I did a nice 7A called Schwarzes loch, then we all moved to Freak brothers 8A+, another project of mine but not for the day, where Nick went really close but finally gave up and where Dani flashed the compression/mantle problem called Tomahawk 7B+!
On our way to the parking I tried a bit more the missing move on Doctor Pinch, stopping after sticking it twice in order to save a little bit of skin for monday morning.
Sunday night was smooth and without unnatural stomach behaviours, but monday morning fingertips were on fire. After a painful warmup I had some good goes on Doctor Pinch, falling three times post crux due to massive pain in my tips. Wisely we called it a day and headed back home...
So I opted for a 3 days weekend in Chironico on my fourwheeled home with Dani and Miki, with no particular ambition.
Saturday conditions were prime, but we were tired and knew there weren't chances for climbing hard. Anyway I figured out all the moves but one of Doctor Pinch, a steep prow rated 8A+ in the guidebook, which actually stands in the 7C/+ range. Then climbed a hard 7A dihedral called Globetrotter, trying to save some skin for sunday.
Unfortunately saturday night wasn't a good one for me, as the 0.5kg chips eaten before dinner resulted in me puking under the shining stars and in the middle of the parking...
I thought no chances for climbing tomorrow, but unexpectedly I woke up in a decent shape and good weather and gentle breeze made the rest for my psyche.
We slowly warmed up at the Barriera sector and before leaving towards Dani's project Doctor Crimp I took a minute to have a look at Super size me 7C+, a seldom repeated vertical wall featuring distant but moderately positive crimps. I decided to have a flash go, just to check if I could do the first move out left. I did it but fell on the second move messing with right foot placement. I quickly made the decision it was worth some tries, as it looked feasible. I quickly dispatched the other two moves, knowing that an easy topout would follow. I set up for my second go from start, with just one pad as Dani was elsewhere finishing warmup. I made my way to the final move with ease. Now it was just one last crank from good crimps to a supposedly positive but slopey top. I looked down and failing would have meant landing outside the pad and on the rock. I hesitated more and more, got finally pumped and had to jump down. I couldn't believe it! Helpless punter... Five minutes later Dani and another pad arrived, but I was still pumped... Third try I felt terrible and had the feeling of failing passing through my mind. But no! I kept composure and on my fourth go I precisely executed the three hard moves and then cruised to the top, surprised by the hugeness of the last hold.
Later on we met Nick, who had just crushed Souvenir 8A and No mystery 8A. Dani and I did a nice 7A called Schwarzes loch, then we all moved to Freak brothers 8A+, another project of mine but not for the day, where Nick went really close but finally gave up and where Dani flashed the compression/mantle problem called Tomahawk 7B+!
On our way to the parking I tried a bit more the missing move on Doctor Pinch, stopping after sticking it twice in order to save a little bit of skin for monday morning.
Sunday night was smooth and without unnatural stomach behaviours, but monday morning fingertips were on fire. After a painful warmup I had some good goes on Doctor Pinch, falling three times post crux due to massive pain in my tips. Wisely we called it a day and headed back home...
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